My Excellent European Adventure 60th Anniversary - Chapter 15: Swingin' London

 

Time magazine cover, April 15, 1966

Nearing the end of our European Adventure, we skipped a scheduled overnight on the Continent and spent it sleeping in our van in Canterbury (see previous post, "Chapter 14," below this post) so that we could have a full day in London before heading home.

Our primary objective for that extra day wasn't the British Museum, the National Gallery, or the V&A Museum.  It was someplace more compelling and top of mind for a group of American teenagers in the mid-1960s:  Carnaby Street.

On April 15, 1966, less than three months before we set out on our trip, Time magazine published its cover story on "London: The Swinging City" (see photo at the top of this post.)  Here are a couple of excerpts from the article:

In this century, every decade has had its city. . . . Today, it is London.  In a decade dominated by youth, London has burst into bloom.  It swings; it is the scene.

Perhaps nothing illustrates the new swinging London better than narrow, three-block-long Carnaby Street, which is crammed with a cluster of the "gear" boutiques where the girls and boys buy each other clothing. Nine of the shops for boys on Carnaby Street are owned by Designer John Stephen, 29, who last week took his tattersall shirts, Dutch boy caps, form-fitting pants and vinyl vests to Manhattan to put the fear of God into parents there. 

With hype like that, we had to go!

Carnaby Street looking NNW at the intersection with Ganton Street

Carnaby Street looking SSE toward the intersection with Ganton Street

When we were there in August of 1966, Carnaby Street was the epicenter of  British music and fashion that powered much of the cultural revolution of the 1960s.  The Beatles, The Stones, movie stars, models . . . all came to Carnaby Street and exported the Carnaby Street zeitgeist to the world.

Geographically, the Carnaby Street shopping district is only 3/10ths of a mile from Savile Row -- a 6-minute walk.  But culturally it was a world away from the ruling class custom menswear shop at  #1 Savile Row where I had bravely ventured in to buy a tie at the beginning of the trip five weeks earlier (see "Chapter 2" below).  I don't remember buying anything on Carnaby Street, nor did I see any rock stars, movie stars, or supermodels.  But I can say I was there when it was the cool place to be.

Next post:  Heading home . . . and what we saw at Heathrow.

My Excellent European Adventure 60th Anniversary - Chapter 14: Racing Across the Continent

 

Nearing the end of our six-week tour of Europe, we were moving fast,​ trying to cram in all the places we wanted to visit​ while sticking to our planned itinerary . . . except for one risky change of plan that resulted in a very uncomfortable night in Canterbury.

From Munich we headed north to Frankfurt am Main, where we had an unique experience:  afternoon tea with the Methodist bishop of West Germany, Friedrich Wunderlich, in his home.  The visit was arranged by a friend of my family who was in the U.S. Army stationed in Frankfurt.

From Frankfurt we motored on to Cologne, with its iconic twin spire cathedral.

The next morning, before we left, I photographed the great cathedral.  It's so huge I couldn't get it all into one frame.  It seats approximately 4,000 people.

According to Wikipedia, "Construction of Cologne Cathedral began in 1248, but was halted in the years around 1560.  Attempts to complete construction began around 1814, but the project was not properly funded until the 1840s.  The edifice was completed to its original medieval plan in 1880."

After its completion in 1880, at 515 feet the cathedral's towers were the world's tallest building until the Washington Monument was completed in 1884.  When we visited it in 1966, the cathedral was the second tallest church building in Europe -- tallest was the Ulm Minster in Ulm, Germany -- and with the completion of the Sagrada Familia towers in Barcelona last year, the Cologne cathedral is now the third tallest.  It was declared a World Heritage site in 1996, and is Germany's most visited landmark.

Later that morning we drove to Amsterdam, where we visited the Rijksmuseum, and stared in awe at Rembrandt's "Night Watch" and other paintings from the Dutch Golden Age (1588-1672), the period when the Netherlands became one of the leading commercial and maritime powers in Europe.

Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

The next few days are fuzzy in my memory.  From Amsterdam we traveled to Brussels, where I found that record shop I reported in the post before this one.  But I do remember that by this time we were so eager to get back to the U.K. we decided to leave the Continent a day ahead of schedule, even though we had no place to stay in England that night.

We took the ferry from Ostende back to Dover and then drove 16 miles to Canterbury in hopes that the hostel we had booked for the next night (and had paid in advance for) would have room for us.  They didn't.

So we spent the night in the van -- all nine of us -- in the parking lot of Canterbury Cathedral.  None of us slept well.  At some point during the night -- I think it was about 1:30 or 2:00am, but who knows? -- a Bobby knocked on the window and asked if we were OK.  Tom, our adult leader, explained our situation, and the Bobby told us we would need to leave at dawn . . . at least that's how I remember it.  

Canterbury Cathedral is located on the site of one of the oldest Christian structures in England.  It was founded in 597 CE, but over the centuries it has been destroyed, rebuilt, and enlarged many times.  Its history is far too long and complicated to be recapitulated in this post, so if you're interested, check out the information at Wikipedia here.  Nevertheless, before we left town I took a few pictures of the cathedral.

After Canterbury, we headed back to London, where we had a few more tourist-y objectives.  I'll elaborate on that -- and what we encountered at Heathrow Airport on departure day -- in my next post.

My Excellent European Adventure 60th Anniversary - Musical Interlude #2: I Saw Her Again

After the profound sadness of my previous post earlier this week, let's take a break with a lighter episode.

In the last weeks of my European Adventure, all of us were getting a little homesick.  I don't know how others in the group dealt with that, but I was looking for some sort of escape from Europe's rich and unfamiliar cultural environment when I wandered into a record shop in Brussels during the final week of the trip where, yes, they sold vinyl LPs and 45s.

The shop had private, soundproof listening booths where you could choose a 45 and listen on headphones.  I don't know why, but I picked "I Saw Her Again" by The Mamas & the Papas, which I had not heard before.  It had been released only a few weeks earlier in Europe as a follow-up to their #1 hit, "Monday Monday," released in March.

The story behind the song is interesting and very typical of the music scene of the mid-1960s.  According to Wikipedia,

      One of three songs co-written by the two male members of the group (the others being "Got a Feelin'" and "For the Love of Ivy"), "I Saw Her Again" was inspired by [Denny] Doherty's brief affair with Michelle Phillips, then married to John Phillips, which, combined with an affair between Michelle Phillips and Gene Clark of The Byrds, resulted in the brief expulsion of Michelle from the group. 

       While mixing the record, engineer Bones Howe punched in the coda vocals too early, inadvertently including Doherty's false start on the third chorus ("I saw her..."). Despite attempting to correct the error, the miscued vocal could still be heard on playback. Producer Lou Adler liked the effect and told Howe to leave it in the final mix.

The song's lyrics -- the singer's ambivalence about his relationship with a woman -- had no personal significance for me.  Heck, I didn't even have a girlfriend at that point in my life, much less one that I might have had ambivalent feelings for.  That sort of thing would come a few months later during my senior year in high school.

But the song's driving rhythms, with multi-layered vocals and instruments, were pure American sound . . . the sound of home for me.  And for 3 minutes and 10 seconds I was back in familiar territory.

You can listen to "I Saw Her Again" by clicking here.  The false start mixing mistake (mentioned above) happens at 2:42 into the song.

Enjoy!

My Excellent European Adventure 60th Anniversary - Chapter 13: Dachau

 

                                                               Evil begins when you begin to treat people as things.

                                                                                      -- Terry Pratchett, in I Shall Wear Midnight

In January, 1933, Hitler became Chancellor of Germany and the Nazi Party took control of the government.  Two months later, March 22, 1933, the first Nazi concentration camp opened in Dachau, a town founded in the 9th century CE about 12 miles northwest of Munich.  In its operation it served as a prototype and model for all other German concentration camps that followed.

The camp was established on the grounds of a munitions factory abandoned after WWI.  It was originally used to intern political opponents of the Nazi Party, which consisted of communists, social democrats, and other dissidents.  Soon, however, it was enlarged to imprison Jews, Sinti and Romani, Jehovah's Witnesses, homosexuals, immigrants, Germans, and Austrians that the Nazis regarded as criminals, and finally prisoners of war from countries that Germany invaded or occupied, including Poland and the Soviet Union.

When a contingent of SS soldiers arrived in May, 1933, to operate the camp, their commander gave a speech, leaving no doubt as to the purpose of the camp:

Comrades of the SS!

You all know what the Führer has called us to do. We have not come here for human encounters with those pigs in there. We do not consider them human beings, as we are, but as second-class people.  . . . The more of these pig dogs we strike down, the fewer we need to feed.

This is an actual photo of the SS commander giving the speech above.

By Bundesarchiv, Bild 152-01-16 / Friedrich Franz Bauer / CC-BY-SA 3.0, CC BY-SA 3.0 de, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=5420179

Dachau was not an extermination camp like Auschwitz-Birkenau, Treblinka, and others, but during the 12 years of its existence, over 32,000 died there, mostly through disease, malnutrition, and suicide, or were murdered by forced labor, torture, and execution.  Thousands more deaths are undocumented.  When the camp was liberated on April 29, 1945, 10,000 of the 30,000 in the camp were sick.

Dachau prisoners at liberation.  Photo by unknown author - United States Holocaust Memorial Museum, Photograph 45075, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=542805

We entered the camp in silence, generally aware of the history but unaware of the horrible details of how people were treated, and not really capable of processing the enormity of the evil that was committed on the land under our feet.

I took color photographs, but for this post to convey something of the emotions I felt, I have intentionally processed all but the final two images in black-and-white, with all the dust spots, scratches, and blemishes that have accumulated since 1966.

The barracks in which thousands tried to survive had all been removed . . . only the outlines of the foundations remained.

Here's what they looked like in 1945:

By T/4 Sidney Blau, 163rd Signal Photo Company, Army Signal Corps - U.S. Holocaust Museum photograph #37255 (also here)Credit: SC 206310, Credit NARA, College ParkSubject Classification: MAJOR CONCENTRATION CAMPS 1940-45 -- Dachau -- LIBERATION -- Views -- GeneralKeywords: DACHAU, CONCENTRATION CAMPS, BARRACKS, VIEWS, SURVIVORS, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=542794

Below is the Maintenance Building, which housed workshops, equipment storage, laundry, and kitchen facilities.  It was also where incoming prisoners were processed and humiliated by stripping them naked, shaving their heads, and collecting all personal items.  The large open space in front was the roll call assembly area.

With so many deaths, Dachau had a crematorium, not as large as the ones in the death camps, but still . . .

But not far away, there were two memorials with messages for all of us.  The first is a statue called the Statue of the Unknown Prisoner:

The inscription on the plinth says ""DEN TOTEN ZUR EHR / DEN LEBENDEN ZUR MAHNUNG," which translates as "To honor the dead, to admonish the living."

The other memorial is the Jewish memorial, with a menorah at the top and the Star of David inscribed in a circle:

 

The marker at the front of the memorial, in German and English, says "Grave of Thousands Unknown."

But what you can't see in this photo, inscribed on the horizontal bar below the circle with the Star of David, are the words in German, Hebrew, and English:

                                                                  DO NOT FORGET

I will not forget.

My Excellent European Adventure 60th Anniversary - Chapter 12: Obersalzberg and Munich

[After World War I] mighty forces were adrift, the void was open, and into that void after a pause there strode a maniac of ferocious genius, the repository and expression of the most virulent hatreds that have ever corroded the human breast—Corporal Hitler.

                                      ― Winston S. Churchill, The Gathering Storm: The Second World War, Volume 1

                                                              - / - / - / - / - / -

Notwithstanding the lighthearted spirit of our trip up to this point, as we approached West Germany there were subtle reminders that WWII had ended only 21 years before.  Innsbruck and Salzburg had both been occupied by the Nazis, and the specter of the Nazi presence in Austria pervades the story of The Sound of Music.  

That specter became more real when we took a side trip to Obersalzberg, West Germany, only 20 miles from Salzburg, where during the war Hitler had one of his Alpine retreats.

This destination was on our itinerary because my father served in Germany in WWII, and one of the very few things he ever said about the war was that he had gone to Obersalzberg after the war to see and vandalize Hitler's Bavarian house before returning home.  For me, it was a pilgrimage to honor my father and partake of the remains of his war in some small way.

I don't recall seeing any signs directing us to the location, and Hitler's residence (the Berghof) had been burned and looted when Allied troops arrived; the shell was demolished by the Bavarian government in 1952.  But we did find the remains of the barracks adjacent to where the Berghof had stood which had housed a large contingent of the Leibstandarte SS Adolf Hitler -- the 1st SS Panzer Division that served as Hitler's personal bodyguard unit, responsible for guarding the Führer's person, offices, and residences.  Here's what it looked like 21 years after the war:

The only other building in the area was the Gästehaus, which was mainly used as administrative offices for Reichsleiter Martin Bormann's staff, and for special guests of Bormann.  Bormann was Hitler's personal secretary and head of the Nazi Party apparatus.  He traveled with Hitler everywhere and controlled information and access to Hitler.

Here's what it looked like during WWII:

Image courtesy of Geoff Walden, "Third Reich in Ruins"

After Obersalzberg and Salzburg, we drove to Munich, a short (90-mile) trip.  We spent most of our time in Marienplatz (Mary's Square), the central square of the city since 1158.  The building that caught my attention was the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall), designed in neo-Gothic/Gothic Revival style.

Construction proceeded in three phases, the first from 1867 to 1874.  When it became clear that the new building could not accommodate all the city government offices, a second section was added from 1889 to 1892.  A third section and the tower were added between 1898 and 1905.

Not far from Marienplatz and the Neues Rathaus was one of Munich's oldest beer halls, the Hofbräuhaus, built in 1589.

Thanks in part to American soldiers stationed in Munich after WWII bringing home beer mugs with the "HB" logo, the Hofbräuhaus quickly became a major tourist attraction in Munich.  And in West Germany in 1966, anyone 16 or older could purchase and drink beer in public without parental supervision.  So we pestered our adult chaperones to take us so we teenagers could try the beer (which we couldn't legally drink in the U.S.).

Needless to say, our young palates weren't accustomed to adult beverages, so we didn't drink much.  Sitting on the periphery of the giant hall, with its long communal wooden tables and live oompah music, we were again reminded that we weren't in Oklahoma anymore, Toto.

And as we sat innocently sipping beer and watching the carousing crowd, the ghost of Adolf Hitler still hovered -- for it was at the Hofbräuhaus that Hitler, as propaganda chief, had announced the official program of the Nazi Party to a meeting of around 2,000 people on February 24, 1920, barely eight months after the signing of the Treaty of Versailles ending World War I.  Seventeen months later, on July 29, 1921, he was elected Führer of the Nazi Party . . . during a meeting at the Hofbräuhaus.

My Excellent European Adventure 60th Anniversary - Chapter 11: Salzburg

 

View of Salzburg from the Hohensalzburg Fortress (see also photo below)

Our next (and last) stop in Austria was Salzburg, most notable as the city where Mozart was born in 1756.

Salzburg was founded in 696 CE.  Situated on the Salzach River, the town's main sources of revenue in medieval times were salt extraction, gold mining, and tolls on commerce along the river.  Like Innsbruck and most of Austria, over the centuries into the 20th century Salzburg was a geo-political and religious "football."

The most prominent landmark is the Hohensalzburg fortress, a medieval fort that was begun in 1077 and expanded and reinforced many times during the next 800 years.  It towers 269 feet above the city.  It was retired as a military outpost in 1861 and was refurbished to become a major tourist attraction in the late 1800s.  The fortress is the building on the mountain over my left shoulder in the photo below.

The city has a long, rich cultural, religious, musical, and architectural history, and the Old Town became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996.  Notwithstanding those cultural riches, however, my interest was driven (as it was in Innsbruck) by a more contemporary phenomenon:  the 1965 movie The Sound of Music, much of which was filmed in Salzburg.

Today there are many tour companies offering Sound of Music location tours in and around Salzburg. 

But in 1966, I had to roll my own . . . from memory.  Here are a couple of the locations in the movie and my photos of them.

The Horse Fountain

Salzburg's most famous horse fountain is the Pferdeschwemme (Horse Pond) on Herbert-von-Karajan-Platz (which wasn't that name when we were there), a historic 17th-century Baroque pool where the prince-archbishops' parade horses were washed.

Scene from the movie
(Julie Andrews and children walking R to L in front of the horse statue)

St. Peter's Cemetery

At the foot of the mountain on which the Hohensalzburg fortress is situated is St. Peter's Cemetery, the oldest cemetery in Salzburg, dating from the 700s.  The oldest grave marker is dated 1288.  Among other city notables, Mozart's older sister, Maria Anna, is buried in the cemetery (1829).

In the movie, the von Trapp family hides in the cemetery as they make their escape from Austria.

Scene from the movie

Ironically, 20th Century Fox could not get permission to film in the cemetery, so they built an exact replica in a Hollywood soundstage where they shot the scene shown above.

The Do-Re-Mi Steps (Mirabell Gardens at the Mirabell Palace)

The Mirabell Palace was built in 1606-07 (when the British were settling Jamestown in North America), and the gardens were laid out 80 years later.  The Palace's current neoclassical appearance dates from around 1818, when the Palace was restored after a fire.

Interesting fact:  three days before D-Day (June 6, 1944) Hitler, Heinrich Himmler, and Martin Borman attended the wedding of Eva Braun's sister to Himmler's liaison officer on Hitler's staff at the Mirabell Palace.

Mirabell Gardens
with the Hohensalzburg Fortress in the distance

In the movie, the final 52 seconds of the production number of the song "Do-Re-Mi" occur in the Mirabell Gardens, adjacent to the Palace.

You can watch the 3-minute finale here.  If you don't want to watch the whole thing, just scrub to 2:08 for the garden sequence -- it's fun.

Enjoy!

My Excellent European Adventure 60th Anniversary - Chapter 10: Innsbruck

 

After visiting Oberammergau and Linderhof Palace, we retraced our route back into Austria for a stop in Innsbruck.

The city is the capital of the Austrian state of Tyrol, and its history goes way back to the Middle Ages.  It was a strategic crossing point for the Inn River on the trade route from northern Italy (Verona) to Germany (Augsburg) over the Brenner Pass . . . the route we took from Venice.  

Tyrol, including Innsbruck, has been a geo-political football for centuries.  It became part of Bavaria during the Napoleonic Wars of the early 19th century, but was restored to Austria in 1814.  Then in 1938 Austria was annexed by Nazi Germany, and the Nazis established two subcamps of the Dachau concentration camp (outside of Munich - about which, more in a later post) in Innsbruck to house high-profile political prisoners and their families from 16 countries as hostages during  WWII.  Between 1943 and April 1945, Innsbruck experienced twenty-two air raids and suffered heavy damage.

Many of the city's historic buildings survived the Allied bombing, including the Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof), considered the city's most famous symbol, which was completed in 1500 and decorated with 2,657 fire-gilded copper tiles to commemorate the third marriage of Emperor Maximilian I which occurred in 1494:

 . . . and right across the street, the Helblinghaus, built in the 1400s with Rococo stucco decorations added in the early 1700s:

The Stadtturm (City Tower), built in 1450:

. . . and the St. Anne's Column, built in 1706 to commemorate the withdrawal of Bavarian troops from the Tyrol region during the War of the Spanish Succession -- another one of those geo-political football periods for Tyrol and Innsbruck:

Uppermost in my mind, however, were not the architectural landmarks nor the geo-political history.  For me, the attraction was the Winter Olympics held in Innsbruck two years earlier.  They were the third Winter Olympics to be televised internationally, and being a child of the Golden Age of Television, I was culturally conditioned to ascribe value to things depicted on TV:  if something -- or some place -- had been on TV or in the movies, then it must be important.

So I was most interested in the structures and symbols of the Innsbruck Olympics, the most dramatic of which was the Olympic cauldron at the Bergisel ski jump stadium, where the Olympic flame burned throughout the games.

Here's the stadium and ski jump itself:

And here's what the skier sees when he/she leaps from the take-off table at the end of the ramp into the air going 60 mph:

Pretty awesome view, eh?  But what you might not notice is what's visible just beyond the stadium, here:

If you look closely, you can see it's a cemetery next to a cathedral!

I think I'd rather go for a run.